A (very) short introduction to travel in Chile

Chile is a very long and thin country spanning most of the west coast of South America.

It stretches over 4,300 km, extending from 17 to 56 degrees latitude. This geography, the enormous Andes Mountain range that forms the backbone of the country and the influence of the Humbolt current that flows up the western coast from the Antarctic creates and spectacularly diverse range of weather systems. The North is extremely arid and hot. Here resides the Atacama Desert which is the driest desert in the world (next to Antarctica). The Southern reaches are cool and wet in summer and very cold in winter. In between you will find just about all types of (micro)climate, sometimes just a mountain pass apart. It pays to check in advance what you can expect and if you travel over any significant distance be prepared for every season. With this in mind we packed very heavy suitcases. Better seasoned travelers would have advised to not bring heavy sweaters and thick coats, but numerous light but warm layers and raingear that can be peeled off or added on as the situation requires.

Chileans are extremely helpful and kind. They will go at great lengths to help in any situation and will take ample time to do so. Having some basic mastery of the Spanish language is an enormous advantage although basic English with some impromptu sign language (or Google translate) will usually suffice for basic needs. Time seems to be an abundant commodity, and this is something a European might need to adapt him of herself to. Once we adopted the art of the unhasted life, we found that indeed the road became the destination, as it were, and we could truly unstress. So best is not to plan too tight a schedule.

The roads are excellent in the cities and on the highways. Further from the beaten path dirt roads are the norm, but even then, these are well kept. The famous Carretera Austral (highway 7) starts at Puerto Montt and travels South to Villa O’Higgins. This partly paved and partly dirt road has often been described as the most beautiful road trip in the world. We went as far as Cerro Castillo and have found no reason to challenge this assertion. We found that carrying a jerrycan with gasoline is no longer a necessity as there are enough gas stations en route. Having a plan with regards to when and where to fill the tank is a necessity, however, as gas stations are few and far between on the Carretrea Austral. North of Puerto Montt this is not a concern.

Traffic is busy in the cities and pleasant in the countryside. In high season smaller places such as Pucón can be practically gridlocked.  Most satnavs will warn of traffic problems. On the highway traffic travels at a pleasant clip. Some drivers, however, seem to find 45 km/h more than speedy enough, while others (of German descent?) prefer barely subsonic speeds.  On the whole driving is safe and pleasant. We rented a car for the trip for maximum freedom and ease. Public transport outside of the cities can sometimes be sparse and cumbersome. An added advantage is the ability to stop by the side of the road on a whim for a picnic of to soak up the view.  

On the whole, travelling in Chile is easy and pleasant. Those who can speak Spanish are at a definite advantage, but Google translate also opens all doors. Be advised that high season (January and February) are busy times (especially on the Carretera Austral) and that accommodation, national parks and especially car ferries may not be able to accommodate on short notice. We were almost always able to find accommodation a day in advance and sometimes had to wait an extra day to enter a park (Queulat national park). Some car ferries really needs to be booked weeks in advance!